With Promo Code "FREESHIP"
One of the most popular topics in the Tdub community is which cargo rack to go with. There are a ton of options. I would say that there it really depends on what your needs are. And while that is sort of true, there are much better options than others. I personally learned first hand what rear luggage rack setup is the most ideal, so hopefully you can learn from my experience.
When I bought my 2018 TW200, the previous owner had kept the bike mostly stock. The biggest "modification" he had made was a home made DIY rear cargo rack. To say it was rough would be an understatement. In essence it was 1" square tubing welded to form an oversized frame. It was rusty and had sharp edges but it stuck out far enough to actually keep my leg from getting pinned when I dumped the bike while learning. Needless to say one of my top priorities was to upgrade my rear rack setup.
The second rear rack I installed I ordered new from eBay. I don't recall how much it cost but it was probably in the $80-$100 range. It looked really nice. It was compact and was a welcomed face-lift compared to the homemade rack from the previous owner. I used this for about 3 years. So overall I can't say it is a terrible option, but, if you plan on doing anything more than city and calm dirt road riding, I would strongly suggest avoiding this style of rack. Here's why: Any rack which mounts on the rear subframe is now limiting it's load capacity. This includes any rack which utilizes the rear turn signal mounting points, and all racks which only mount as far forward as the back of the seat. You will notice there is (or at least was) a sticker on your TW200 which states the rear cargo capacity is 7lbs. That is nothing! You may think that is a bit of an exaggeration, but it really isn't. Over time of carrying a box with basic trail tools, water, spare fuel, and some other occasional cargo, my sub frame cracked, and then snapped in half. The rear subframe is just thin steel tube and lacks the support for carrying any real amount of cargo. I was able to use my welder to get things more or less restored to original condition, but the whole time I was kicking myself for allowing my cheap budget to compromise the value of a pretty new bike. Any potential buyer would now be able to quickly identify that some damage had been sustained. Luckily for me I have no intention of selling my bike, but you get the point. Lastly I found that sandwiching the mounting brackets between the subframe and the rear signal lights caused issues with the lights not being able to fully mount. This caused me to go through a couple of turn signals when they vibrated lose and disappeared somewhere on the trail.
After fixing my subframe I sold my eBay rack for $20 and ordered a Cyclerack. If you have done any digging into Cycleracks you will know that they are the gold standard. Made in Boise, ID they come with a lifetime warranty. They are among the most expensive options at $200 USD but you really do get what you pay for. Not only are you paying for the best, you are supporting a business which supports the Tdub community (and other bikes). The Cyclerack has 3 mounting points all on the main frame. This is advantageous for three main reasons. First it acts as an extension of the frame and thereby adds more protection to your bike, particularly the rear fender plastics and turn signals. It also provides a great handle point for man-handling your bike if you end up tipping it. Second you raise your rear load capacity from a mere 7lbs to 100lbs+ (The folks at Cycleracks have not published an official rating, but based on my experience I would be more concerned with overstressing the rear strut before the rack.) Third it provides more mounting points for specialized equipment. My hunting buddy designed a custom rifle rack out of an ABS pipe which utilized the long leg of the Cyclerack for mounting. Another perk of going with the Cyclerack is that they also have other products designed to integrate to the rear rack. This makes it easier for mounting saddle bags and Rotopax auxiliary fuel tanks.
I should mention that there are some other viable options which I have not personally tried but I have heard mixed reviews of. The main competitor to the Cyclerack would be the Tusk Utility Top Rack, sold by Rocky Mountain ATV. I have seen them used but I have also seen pictures of cracked welds on the forums. As of writing this the Tusk is about $70 cheaper than the Cyclerack and from what I have heard it is Rotopax-ready.
For whatever rack you go with I do highly suggest mounting a weatherproof storage box. This will maximize your storage capacity, gives you a locking option, and saves time from having to deal with securing your gear with straps or rope. I use the Apache boxes from Harbor Freight. Particularly the Apache 3800. I started out with the 2800 and quickly found that it just wasn't enough space for long trips. An added perk is that they offer a tan color option which matched my 2018 color scheme quite nicely. For an in-depth description of my go-to trail gear I keep in my storage box see my article about trail gear.
Disclaimer: I am not affiliated nor paid by any of the brands listed or their competitors